La Serena

Yesterday I came to La Serena. I stayed in a colonial house of someone who offered me a room at the bus station. I think it's the usual practice here. The family was very nice, the house was old and musky... with lot's of antigues and a grand dining room. After breakfast I cought a bus going to a neighboring port town. It's one of these places which are not in guidebooks and I only went there because the family recommended it. I loved it. I went to the fish market and immediately everyone started coming to me and saying in a conspirational whisper "loco." Loco... LOco... LOCO... Necessito loco? shhhh... At first I thought they were telling me they were all crazy (loco means crazy) (Don't worry, dear. I am crazy myself. It's not such a very terrible thing.) or that the city was crazy (Oh, really? I haven't noticed... not more than any other place...) or that I was crazy (You think so? That is hightly possible...) until I got the courage and asked "Que es loco?" and one of the fisherman showed me something that was a marine creature but it would be hard to tell of what kind. I said no thank you, I have no place to cook it. There must be some ban on fishing it, otherwise why the conspiracy? I will ask the family when I get back to their house. I got to the end of the market and saw some people feeding the sea lions! There is a colony of sea lions on some rocks near the beach and since they are not harmed by humans in any way they come to the port for easy breakast. There were seven of them. They were swimming around, looking at us, getting the scraps of fish and when they got full they gracefully left, without any hurry, swimming together, having fun (sometimes they were swimming on their backs, exposing their yellow teeth as if they were smilling). They are unbelievable creatures. When they were gone the pelicanos came for their share of the remainings. The fish market feeds many creatures. Cats are also waiting for their lunch in big numbers but they are picky - they know what they like best and wait only for that. After I tore myself from the port and wished the fishermen good day, I went to explore the city, got a delicious fish lunch, and went to La Serena to explore the town, the museum of archeology and then I walked to the beach where I met friendly dogs who ate my leftover lunch which I scrupulously always have with me in case a hungry dog shows up. I also took a nap on the beach - there's nothing better than falling asleep to the tune of the waves coming to the shore... I am going to run now to catch a bus to San Pedro. 18 hours non-stop. I will respond to all wonderful individual e-mails from San Pedro. Much love to all.